Vietnam had always been on my radar—a place I’d visited several times for work but never really seen. This time, Bryan and I committed to exploring it in earnest, and explore we did, spending nearly a month there. From cycling the Mekong Delta to unwinding on the remote Con Dao islands and a whirlwind of adventures in the North, Vietnam offered a crash course in everything I love—and sometimes hate—about travel.
Cycling the Mekong Delta: Two Wheels and Endless Smiles
We crossed into Vietnam from Cambodia and hit the Mekong Delta on bikes—a stark and immediate contrast to cycling in Cambodia. The rural roads were dominated by motorbikes and bicycles (hardly any cars or trucks), vegetation was abundant, and the food was healthy, delicious, and protein-packed (tofu 🙏). A lot of this came down to our guide, Thang, who knew the best routes, hidden gems, and found vegetarian restaurants.
We pedaled through rice and brick factories and even met a woman weaving straw mats with her hands and feet in her home—a mesmerizing display of resourcefulness and repetition. For someone with a love-hate relationship with biking, I was surprised to feel genuinely sad when the tour ended. That says everything about Thang’s talent and Bryan’s patience: they struck the perfect balance of biking, sightseeing, and eating.
Saigon: Street Food, Scooters, and Sobering History
Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) was a sensory overload. The best parts? A private vegan street food tour, Grab motorbikes, and seeing Bryan’s friend before their move back to Australia. The worst? Traffic and the painfully one-sided exhibits at the War Remembrance Museum.
The Vegan food tour was the standout. Led by a young woman who combined impeccable organization with deep knowledge of Saigon, she was also refreshingly honest and open. We sampled dishes from street vendors I’d have otherwise avoided entirely at first glance. Fruits, curries, noodles—and a decidedly odd coconut jelly dessert I won’t be rushing to try again—were devoured as we chatted about superstition, politics, and generational change. It was an evening full of insights and a reminder that short, local-led tours are the perfect way to get a slice (or slurp) of what an unfamiliar city has to offer.
Con Dao: Peace, Jungle Trails, and Scooters
Con Dao was the polar opposite of Saigon. These remote islands felt blissfully untouched by the chaos of mainland life. Known for their history as sites of political imprisonment, they’ve now become a quiet retreat for domestic tourists and nature lovers.
We hiked lush jungle trails, snorkeled, and I even drove a scooter (in a parking lot, but still—a milestone!). The humidity hovered around 100%, and the temperature felt like a solid 40°C, so the hiking was more of a slow-motion shuffle, but it was worth every sticky step.
At the end of a long, sweaty day, we found our salvation at Madame Ha’s, a vegetarian restaurant so good we ate there twice. Con Dao felt like our own private oasis—a place to reset, recharge, and embrace the silence.
Northern Vietnam: Running on Empty
By the time we reached northern Vietnam, travel fatigue had well and truly kicked in. If we could do it over, we’d probably skip this leg and head home. That said, a few moments stood out—some for better, some for worse:
- Hanoi: A motorbike tour zipped us through tiny alleys, showcasing stark economic contrasts and giving us a solid dose of adrenaline. The infamous “Hanoi Hilton” museum fell flat, but a candid guide beforehand redeemed things with refreshingly modern takes on gender equality.
- Ninh Binh: We channeled our inner kids, wobbling along on rusty old bikes to parks and dinner. The squeaky brakes added some unintentional drama to the rides, but it was all part of the charm. The highlight, though, was visiting a bear sanctuary where rescued bears, once exploited for bile extraction, were now living their best bear lives—lounging in pools and napping in the shade. It was both sobering and surprisingly sweet.
- Sa Pa: A dream turned to disappointment. The hillsides were stunning, but relentless tourism, non stop rain, and villagers begging at every turn made it hard to enjoy. The lowlight: Two young kids, just 2 and 6 years old, left alone to panhandle for over 14 hours. The encounter was a sharp reality check, and while we tried to help in the moment, the memory still lingers.
- Halong Bay: A full-on tourist circus, complete with a flotilla of ships jockeying for position. Still, the views were gorgeous, and our ridiculously luxurious room made it all a lot more tolerable. We ended up laughing more than we had in several days, while kicking back and just accepting this day for what it was.
Reflections on Vietnam
Vietnam was a buffet of experiences—vibrant, delicious, and occasionally maddening. It reminded me why I love travel: the quirky connections, ever-changing outdoor experiences, epic food, and those “Did that actually just happen?” moments. It also reinforced why travel can sometimes drive me to the brink: over-tourism, relentless traffic, and realizing that my patience battery emptied somewhere around Cambodia.After one last meal at Katza, our favorite vegetarian spot in Hanoi, we boarded our flight home. Vietnam was the grand finale—a whirlwind of beauty, chaos, and the occasional “Whose idea was this?” moment. We were ready for home, ready for routines, and more than ready to never, ever book another hotel again… at least for a while, so we thought.
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